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Ordinary holidays in Valseriana

/ Climbing

To organize something new is always interesting. From zero to perfect circles for running, search for a sports complex, to explore the rock formations on the subject of training, exploration trails, find the gims... I Think in the valley of the river Serio all this a hundred times passed by the Italians.

urubko vac 1 d

However, I am just a wild migrant entered by wild wind. Even if all the forces trying to penetrate the local spirit, to participate in activities of climbers Bergamo Nembro and Albino. I try. But not enough contact, language skills, daily routine, misunderstanding of customs and traditions. It is sad to realize my place slightly to the outside. So... I have to reinvent the wheel.


So, sector by sector I explore the Valgua gorge where multiple rock walls for climbing. Running by the roads of the upper part Albino, Bondo-Petello and around lake Endine was assimilated in the process of preparation for the expeditions. On a training climb to the summits of Coca, Alben and Corna-Piana me took Paolo Valoti, Franco Testa and Matteo Galizzoli; on several mountains I climbed solely by the map. Fences in the surrounding villages were sought if there were no partners for rocks.


- So, we'll meet at seven o'clock, - I waved a hand in farewell Alessio Cossali. We just left from trainings in Oratorio Albino. - Let's make a technique.
- Need I bring a climbing shoes?
- No, sneakers is enough. We will climb and go just by foot.


So on Friday I had matarutse in the canyon, just to find a suitable wall fifteen meters. All overgrown with grass and bushes it had a good ground. There were many cracks, crevices and holes. So in Saturday morning at seven o'clock Alessio and me zealously thrashed hooks, put "friends" and "nutts", fixed Cams.

- It is necessary to remember, - I sighed. - And to explore this kind of rock. In Kazakhstan and the Himalayas are a different breed.
- Is easier here?
- No. Your limestone is more difficult - smile turned confused. - Even though it is much softer.

We organized the stations, climbed the walls with anchors, cut the air by commands - just like in the good old days. Passing along the trail climbers watched with amazement at the spectacle. However! It is alpinism. Something created by own hands - from the rules of safety and reliability. When every meter of the route brings the pleasure of a job well done. When at the end of training begins to loom the North face of Aiger or Everest - no more, no less!


And the next day from a nearby village Alzano rushed to me Aldo Mutti.

- Wanna see a new sector?! - as always he was full of energy. - Let's go to Vertova?!

What so! Let's do it! Twenty minutes later we found ourselves in an interesting place - cave of San-Patricio. In the slope above the valley was an old marble mine, but now it was adapted for climbing purposes. The place was suitable for a picnic on the roadside, warm and Sunny day was the best proof of that. Strange, but we were just two visitors only. Yes sometimes stopped to look at athletes different tourists in cars and motorcycles.



- Get out by the overhanging hold! - advised Aldo. - And then a hole on the right!
- Am full of critics, - I muttered. - So many fresh routes, it is possible to scroll it on-sight.

We climbed as a leaders one by one. In a result for a few hours we managed seven runs - mostly 6b. And for a snack managed to do what had one year dreamed of - to ride 6c on-sight again. It was a pleasure. When the feet are holding vertical, and hands are fixing is just for the minuscule. Despite the fact that the internal looseness off scale high, I flowed harmoniously as a quiet warm wind over the dark rock. And yet... three weeks ago in the La-Sportiva office recived shoes "Cobra" - from the first steps I fell in love with it.


- Right, Dennis! Right, - whispered from the bottom Aldo. - Is there a gap, and then a hole just for one finger.
"My God! - stubbornly I was silent. - Is better to climb for the left." And was rewarded with a small carna allowed to hold the body in equilibrium, to cling to the wall, right hand went to the pickup... it was too small for two hands, had to remove two fingers of the right palm, left to substitute. And then elegantly two-toed feet to stand under the overhang to catch up... and... and! Substituted, was the second leg suddenly Salsola marble. Wah! Derngate! At heart, however, I don't even flinch...


I tried to resist micro-plate, gently returned the leg to the point, and slightly shifted the equilibrium to the right. Quietly swung, and got to "tram handles" on the vertical. This is the way to put a "Cobra", to believe on friction. Ah! By the tram is impossible me to pull off from here.

- Cool, Den! - already at the bottom congratulated me Aldo. - we can to climb on 7a at next week.
- After a trip to Calabria scored two extra pounds, - I said. - There is a kitchen so that yum! Need to get rid of them, then will think about sevens.
- Perfectly! is very good training with additional weight


On the road in the car we laughed and joked. The surroundings of Bergamo built for adventure. Are beautiful mountains and rocks around, many friends. It means that is coming time to discover a new project. Challenging, exciting, interesting. What, in fact, trained and spend days on the rocks. Tearing the skin, remove veins, stretch ligaments and estivate muscles to the trash. The project of self-exploration.

source: urubko-school.blogspot.it

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