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Who said 'Vertigo'?

/ Climbing

Fatima Gil, the Kayland people and his partner Vicky Vega up the first female climber to conquer the Picu Urriellu by the very difficult route "El Pilar del Cantábrico" 500m, A2+/6b+, after two nights sleeping on the wall.

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Day 1
July 12, 2015

Vicky began climbing the first two pitches. Then it was my turn in the third and fourth, more and more difficult. When the one could not follow, the other was reached rom the last point and, although puchy, we ascended.

In R4, we place the portaledge and saw a sunset in a impressive sea of clouds. While sounding a pirate radio station in which only sounds great songs. We had for dinner one warm soup that tasted like heaven. And we sleep looking at the countless stars in the sky flashing.

That night was magical and comfortable. The next day we played the hardest. We were not yet aware of how much.

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Day 2
July 13, 2015

I climb the fifth pitch, I woke up with energy. Vicky continued after the sixth. Then I climb The seventh, the famous crossing rusty slings. Some of it was changing but others had to trust that did not fit any more for those little rock bridges. Then I knew we were short of time.

I climbed as fast as I could the eighth pitch. In my opinion the hardest and psychological on this route. Halfway along I pass one little roof to the left. And from there, the light abandon me.

With my flashlight I kept climbing. It was a small point of light in a vast sea of ??rock. I was at night and in a precarious situation. I could not do anything but follow a lost way. A hook after another. I take the previous hook and put it back. "Vicky, attention" constantly say. Even I know she can not do anything if a hook failure in this endless dance sequence.

Nowhere to protect, or reverse. There is no hurry now, because it is night and everyone is asleep but me. I've never been more awake. I do not remember exactly how many steps I followed hook. But it was more than eight. I was just concentrating on stick with that monotonous and hypnotic cadence.

At three o'clock reach the R8. A precarious belay of two nails were my bed. Vicky slept in the R7 and me in R8, for safety. We had two light coats, survival blanket and my sleeping bag.  And so, we expect the desired light of dawn.

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Day 3
July 14, 2015

We had one last long complicated offwich fissure 6b + / A2. When get the R9 I knew that we were going to get. Six pitches more of free climbing between IV- 6a+ and we,ll get the summit.

And at the summit, Fernando Calvo, of Picu guides, Kayland people, brought us water and fresh Aquarius. The summit became a party. And the tiredness vanished briefly giving way to a state of euphoria. We enjoyed an unforgettable sunset in good company.

Who said 'Vertigo'?

Who said 'Vertigo'?

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